I Am a Surfer

 I grew up in Santa Monica. I started surfing when I was a little boy. I've surfed all over the world....
But this picture is of me in the parking lot at the Redondo Beach Break-wall!   I lived in Hermosa Beach for a few years...

This had to be one of my favorite dayz ever. The day I learn how to surf.
Oh, gosh, of COURSE I was scared at first. I thought I would drown or injure myself or sumthin. But it was my first lesson. I tried not to let anything get to me...

I've been surfing pretty much all my life, since I was born and raised on a small island. But, once, when I was in seventh grade, my cousins and I were out late and night on a private beach and the waves started coming in too...

I was definately a water baby. As soon as I could walk on my own I was running away from my mom on the sandy beach, headed for the water. Soon after, one of my older cousins slapped me on a "baby board" and I was pretty good...

Surfing,Love it,The waves,Ridin' 'em,All in the trill,Of a days surfing.

I've has the good fortune of being able to surf up and the Eastern Coast of Aus. Which is great, but no matter what despite the fact that I now live and work in Sydney, i'm still a Novacastrian at heart and love to surf of Nobby's...

I have been in the water for as long as I can remember and I remember my first surfing experience like it was yesterday. When I was younger I started surfing when I was 7 years old. I originally started off body boarding but I remember...

I've started surfing at least a few years ago and got my first board for my 10th birthday. It was a nice 6.8" NSP and I used it everyday for that summer. Then, my dad transferred me to his Cosmic Bull fish and it's like using a boogie...

Surfing since 7 years of age,now 16.Havent lived close enough to the water for enough of  a significant amount of time to become as good a surfer of people such as Coco Ho.Lived on the North Shore of Oahu in the town of Sunset...

I have been connected with the water since my earliest memory. My mum was lifeguarding and she taught me to go underwater (drown-proofing, they call it), when I was five months old. I swam and dove and then progressed to surfing...

I've been surfing since I was 9 so it's been about 9 and a half years. There is nothing that I know that gives as great a rush as surfing through a storm. I've had my *** handed to me by undertoes, jellyfish, and even my own board...