Dry-Hair Surfer
Posted June 21st, 2008 at 2:24PM
This had to be one of my favorite dayz ever. The day I learn how to surf.
Oh, gosh, of COURSE I was scared at first. I thought I would drown or injure myself or sumthin. But it was my first lesson. I tried not to let anything get to me. So first me and Mitch (my big bro) had to learn how to surf on land. So, that was E-Z! 5 steps, and that's it. So I thought piece of cake. But I remembered that gosh this had to be devastating on water.
I got in. I hoped our instructor Fabio would make Mitch go first so I could watch him and see how he did it and how well. But of course, just my luck, Fabio made ME go first. So we paddled out there, and as a wave came, he gave me a push, and off I went. I stood up, bent my knees, and GOSH I was havin' fun! I didn't fall but once that day! And Mitch; well, I was already by FAR better than him.
When I got out, Fabio said to me, Gosh, u r the only surfer that I knonw that can surf for 2 hrs and still have dry hair! Well, that made me fell great! And the photographer told me that someone said to her, "This guy must have been surfin for YEARS!" And she said, "Nope, this is his first wave." "Really?!"
Well, that's the story of the Dry-Hair surfer.
-
Great story! :)
-
wow, that is scary. My hair goes green and ratstaily if I go in some pools too much, that is not a good look for a blonde.
My first experience in big waves, I got totally dumped, thought I was going to drown and never went in again, until I thought my friend was drowning one day and pulled her out, phew!
I do plan to surf again, but just paddled a bit this year, in baby pool, I am pregnant and so scared of harming the bub, my water courage is just plain gone for now,
I swim in the pool where I am but mostly just make half a lap, really slowly and walk around floating.
How on earth do you keep your hair dry, that must not be enjoyable, why don't you go for it and dip your hair in. -
what sort of teacher is Fabio, he sounds a bit full on. We make fun of that name here in asia with people that think there too good looking.
-
AWESOME. I was too scared of the deeper ocean to learn as a kid. These days I'm always seeing the guys barefoot in their wetsuits biking to the beach and I reeeeally want to come try.
1-4 of 4 Comments
4 Comments (add your own)
Sort By