This had to be one of my favorite dayz ever. The day I learn how to surf.
Oh, gosh, of COURSE I was scared at first. I thought I would drown or injure myself or sumthin. But it was my first lesson. I tried not to let anything get to me. So first me and Mitch (my big bro) had to learn how to surf on land. So, that was E-Z! 5 steps, and that's it. So I thought piece of cake. But I remembered that gosh this had to be devastating on water.
I got in. I hoped our instructor Fabio would make Mitch go first so I could watch him and see how he did it and how well. But of course, just my luck, Fabio made ME go first. So we paddled out there, and as a wave came, he gave me a push, and off I went. I stood up, bent my knees, and GOSH I was havin' fun! I didn't fall but once that day! And Mitch; well, I was already by FAR better than him.
When I got out, Fabio said to me, Gosh, u r the only surfer that I knonw that can surf for 2 hrs and still have dry hair! Well, that made me fell great! And the photographer told me that someone said to her, "This guy must have been surfin for YEARS!" And she said, "Nope, this is his first wave." "Really?!"
Well, that's the story of the Dry-Hair surfer.