Alot to Learn

Surfing since 7 years of age,now 16.Havent lived close enough to the water for enough of  a significant amount of time to become as good a surfer of people such as Coco Ho.Lived on the North Shore of Oahu in the town of Sunset Beach (Haleiwa) for a short amount of time(half a year) and hawaiian by blood,1/4.Not as good a surfer as I could be,much less should be.However still making an effort at it and learning that in surfing,you cant jump from point A to C or D.Learn it,practice it,live it,breath it,love it.Just dont take it for granted as you become more skilled.Surfing isnt all competition,fame,or glory.Its enjoyment,passion,freedom,a getaway,all those wonderful things.So when out in the water learn to share the waves,and some aloha spirit.In surfing there's always room for improvement and we all have alot to learn.