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A Long Time

I've been surfing since I was 9 so it's been about 9 and a half years. There is nothing that I know that gives as great a rush as surfing through a storm. I've had my *** handed to me by undertoes, jellyfish, and even my own board but it's just an amazing feeling! I almost died surfing during the hurricanes down here but if I had caught one good wave in the process I would have been happy. Crazy I know but it's something I live to do.
HanaNoMizu HanaNoMizu 22-25, F 1 Response Nov 28, 2007

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It is crazy. I call it a beautiful obsession! I like your description! My whole fam surfs. It bonds us together!