A Long TimeI've been surfing since I was 9 so it's been about 9 and a half years. There is nothing that I know that gives as great a rush as surfing through a storm. I've had my *** handed to me by undertoes, jellyfish, and even my own board but it's just an amazing feeling! I almost died surfing during the hurricanes down here but if I had caught one good wave in the process I would have been happy. Crazy I know but it's something I live to do.
HanaNoMizu 22-25, F 1 Response 0 Nov 28, 2007